Housetraining
Behavioral Therapy
Client Study Essay
Client Study Evaluation
Introducing a New Baby
Secrets to Choose a Trainer
Do-It-Yourself Physical
Test Your Pups Behavior

For the purposes of a clear understanding of behavior modification techniques, let’s first examine our approach to behavioral therapy, and our definition.

Most of us think “therapy is therapy”... right? We instantly think of laying on a couch in a small, dimly lit room, and a Doctor with a notepad is listening and writing our every word. So naturally, if it was “Canine Therapy”, you might reasonably expect the same '. You would be partly correct. We do have an in-depth interview and discussion session, but this part of the “therapy” is only 10-30% of our total program, depending on the behavioral problem. The big difference with Dog’s is...they can’t talk back.

Consequently, we combine “proven” behavior modification techniques with a mental “wellness” program... designed to trigger a dog’s innate responses.

So basically I’m saying “we will not just sit there and talk to you and give you some solutions to practice at home. We stress the fact that to heal your dog (not “heel”) ... you need to be there 100%, hands on to practice the routines required in our “Domestic Adjustment “ program.

To us, behavioral therapy should consist of a combination of proven verbal solutions/therapeutic techniques and full blown obedience training.

We would never tell you to “go somewhere else and attend an obedience class”, come back next week and lets talk some more.” Why?... because, you need more than an obedience class!

Our exercises are designed from a clinical standpoint and have been proven successful, for almost half a century. If your dog has serious behavioral problems, you need more than a “Dog Trainer”.
On the other hand, you also need more than just a “Therapist”.

We are not just ”Dog Trainers”. Nor are we “Canine Therapists”, we combine structure from BOTH disciplines in our program ... and have done so for many years, with thousands of satisfied clients.

Some owners ignore minor behavioral issues thinking they will just “go away”. In most cases THEY DO NOT . In fact they become more ingrained. This can lead to additional “derivatives” of the behavior, becoming even more serious or annoying.

Additionally, others get offended and defensive, when we tell them they need to “start again” in a new relationship with their dogs. We hear the statement ... “I’ve had dogs all my life, I know what I’m doing, I know as much as you, or more... but, now tell me what’s wrong with my dog ?”

As a Dog owner you must realize the is no “Quick Fix”, in regard to serious behavioral problems. Serious behavioral problems take months and sometimes years to resolve. Some may even require a “two headed” approach using medications in conjunction with the physical behavioral therapy.

On the other hand, issues such as “Not Coming, House breaking, Excessive Barking, Jumping, Minor Aggression, and similar issues can be resolved relatively quickly... in fact “instantly” in some cases.

Bottom line, unless the owner is fully committed to the behavioral program and is “ultra-consistent” with implementing the solutions provided... it has little chance of succeeding.

To say we can precisely interpret what the dog is thinking would be untrue. But, through close examination of multiple factors we can get an excellent starting point in which to begin behavior modification and training.

In addition, every effort has been made to keep this information as non-technical and as easy to read, and understand, as possible.

We hope you find it informative, educational and helpful.

Clinical Diagnosis:

We combine a series of tests, with a detailed history of dog and owner, to fully interpret the dog’s behavior patterns.

We then review the dogs overall personality, based on the results of our proven evaluation formula. In this way behaviors that could “overlap” in regard to correct diagnosis and solutions, are more likely to stand alone and be clearly identified.

To help you understand our evaluation process better, we have provided a brief description of our step by step testing, and provided you the reasons why we perform the individual tests. We also mention the different behavioral problems that can become evident during each particular evaluation segment.

Obviously not ever dog will need to go through all the steps, but most tests generally apply.

Evaluation Criteria

Basic Physical Exam.

Animals Detailed History.

Owner Evaluation / Experience / Habits/ Master Image ™ Test.
Dog to People Interaction. i.e. Includes owner participation.

Play Drive/Response.

Dog to Dog Interaction.

Prey Drive.

Basic Intelligence testing.

Trigger routines. i.e. Events that trigger negative behavior for the benefit of our observation.

Gradient Training ™ Test. Advanced Social skills.

Fear Threshold. i.e. Environmental Stimuli that create a nervous/fear reactions, if any.

Domestic Adjustment ™ /Acceptance Threshold ™ test. Evaluate Aggression Level.

Basic Physical Exam:

Priority one, for any experienced trainer/behaviorist should be to determine that they are working with a healthy animal. We insist that the clients dog have visited their Veterinarian for a check up and necessary vaccinations, at least one week before entering our kennel. Should we have any health concerns we will consult with the veterinarian , prior to us handling the dog.

Upon entry, we will do an additional basic physical check up (on our Website for free download) as a secondary precaution.

Animals Detailed History:

As professional trainer/behaviorists we must have as much information as possible on the animals past history. In most cases 90% of the animals negative “learned behavior” behavior can be attributed to the animals “home environment”. We pay careful attention and analyze “HOW” the dog is behaving subject to it’s owners interpretation of events.

Owner Evaluation:

A lot of times the owner is unintentionally causing most of the problems, or at least creating the “triggers” for the unwanted behaviors. Sometimes it is due to inexperience, sometimes not.

We will want to know the owner’s “approach” to dog ownership, their “beliefs” based on prior knowledge (good or bad), their degree of “anthropomorphism” and their expectations related to training/behavior modification. The owners personal profile is as important as the dog’s, in some cases... more important.

We also note the owners “bad habits”. The amount of negative behaviors that are attributed directly to THE OWNER, and that the owner has been responsible for teaching to their dog.

In addition, we look at the owners ability to provide a concrete “Master Image”™.

In some cases the dog merely recognizes the
owner” as a caretaker, it really has no concept of “respect” and the “identity” and “rank” of the owner within it’s pack.(family)

In this evaluation we determine WHAT DEGREE of Master Image™ does the owner have, on a scale of 1-10. We look at well is the dog listening to them, paying attention to commands, etc.

We also, determine the amount of “owner counseling” that will be necessary before and after the training is completed.

Dog to People interaction.

Is the dog socialized correctly?

We look for the degree of “basic” inter human social skills the dog has learned to date. Phase 1, of this test starts with evaluation the owner/dog bond, reactivity, ability to communicate, attention span, evident undesirable behavior, general behavior in owners presence and reaction to verbal requests. We evaluate the dog’s reaction to Male and Female owners (as most times there is a BIG variance) . We look at the number and ages of children in the household and observe in child/dog interaction, and dog/child interaction... there is a distinct difference here also.

Phase two, consists of behavior’s with unknown humans with the dog being “isolated” from the owner. The same criteria apply and then a comparison is drawn of the results. The overall results give us an indication of the degree of negative behavior that is “standard” personality and how much is influenced and triggered merely by the owners presence. The next step is to break down what we determine is “genetically” inherited or just “learned behavior”.

For example, if the dog is overly active. Is this behavior pattern something “typical “ for the breed?, therefore genetic... or is it a pattern taught to the dog either by the owner or it’s overall living environment, or both. Perhaps the owners has very young children who are “somewhat” active! Is the dog mirroring it’s “littermates?”

Another question would be “Is this behavior a combo, genetic/learned behavior?. Again, in many cases this would be a “natural assumption”, but still needs to be broken down as much as humanly possible.

By carefully evaluation the dog in it’s everyday environment with and without the owners, we can determine what the basis will be for our final diagnosis of the behavior and consequently develop a methodical solution.

Play Drive.

Again crucial, especially when dealing with the more aggressive personality.

Note: A dog does not have to be a biter, to be classified as “aggressive”.

Does the dog like to play?, or is it a continuously “uptight” animal. If it does like to play... How does it play, what are it’s favorite games?

Is it passive play, or aggressive play? Has the dog an overly intense “Play Drive”? if so, Why?

We have modified the behavior of so many dogs in the past because the owners played incorrectly with their dog. Sounds like a “no brainer”...play with your dog! Boy, can you really teach some very seriously negative behaviors.

Although closely related to “advanced social skills” as part of our overall evaluation, it has become obvious to us over the years that there is a direct correlation between play ability and overall adjustment, hence we made it a separate test.

It pretty standard procedure that we will develop specific, customized play routines, as part of a dog’s overall program.

Dog’s & Owners that Play together... stay together!

Dog to Dog Interaction.

Inter species behavior can also convey a myriad of “indicators” as to the “root cause” of behaviors, from separation anxiety to severe aggression. Again there are 2 phases. Phase 1, Dog’s/Cats or other in the Same Household. Phase (2) Animals, unknown to the dog.

We look at the dog’s ability to interact, what is the “tone” of the interaction?. At what distance(zone) is the “play” reflex triggered. At what distance is the dog’s fight of flight reflex triggered? (if at all) How does the animal approach? Is our student aggressive or submissive initially.

So much can be learned in the first few seconds of inter species interaction by the trained eye. Again, this test can help evaluate aggression levels, dominance levels and certain phobia’s. It reveals anxiety levels, canine social skills, degrees of socialization, etc.

Prey Drive

Every dog has a prey drive, but with some breeds it is more pronounced. In fact, some dogs can be outright “killers”.

There are certain dog’s that require close attention be paid to the intensity of their “Prey Drive”. For example, dog’s that have a habit of chasing small children when they run, and sometimes “bite” or the dogs leave the house daily to “hunt”, or others that chase and kill chickens or other farm animals. These dogs have very intense prey drives, but it is inherent in all breeds.

An intense prey drive can be a very serious behavioral problem and should be correctly identified. It should never be confused with a dog’s “herding” instinct.

Basic Intelligence Testing.

This can be a very confusing topic. Testing can have different results, depending on a dogs age, BREED and temperament. These factors MUST BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT, in performing intelligence tests.

We try to keep this evaluation short and a lot of times take an “observer” approach (unknown to the owner) and ask certain key questions, as opposed to setting up individual tasks.

We evaluate the dog’s intelligence levels in various ways. We find that determining the dogs vocabulary is a good place to start. How many words does the dog understand and react to? Can it perform certain tricks.? What is it’s motivation for the performance, i.e. Food Fear, Praise? Will the dog seek out the owner in a “Hide and Seek” game. If so, how methodically does it search, and what is the intensity level. Can the dog perform in a sent “discrimination test”, using an article of clothing from the owner, how long does it take?

Does the dog watch TV?, if so, what type of programming gets it’s attention. This sounds “funny”... but really smart dog’s DO watch TV... we are not kidding on this one.

There are a myriad of tests from covering the dog in a blanket and seeing how long it takes to get out from under it, to placing a treat under a large plastic bowl and observing the “deduction” ability of the dog in solving the problem of getting the treat.

If we create a “problem” for the dog, what degree of “reasoning” does it have? Is reasoning Intelligence? Are good problem Solving Skills “Intelligent” or do they “Know” the routine?

There are many components to “Intelligence Testing” and each test result is subject to so very many interpretations, that there is truly no “standard”. It is a very “subjective” arena.

Trigger Routines.

In this phase we create “triggers” for the dog’s negative behaviors. We simulate situations or events that cause the behavior and observe the initial reactions, the intensity and the duration of the event. The owner may or may not be involved. Determining the “exact cause” of negative behavior is the key to successful long term modification.

Diligent effort goes into “trigger simulation” and observation. It may be necessary to trigger behavior in multiple environments to determine if there are added circumstances or deviations that occur subject to the dog’s immediate environment.

Gradient Testing (Gradient Training™) Advanced Social Skills

From the earliest studies of canine behavior it was found that dog’s innately create a series of territorial “Zones” around them. To understand this, imagine you dropped a stone into a still pond.
Waves are created, and as they spread across the pond, they resemble a pattern similar to that of the dogs territory as the diagram below shows.

Comfort Zone™

Territorial
Range

The further you move from the center, the further apart the rings. This overall diagram depicts the Dog’s “Range.” A Dog may have a range that ends at the perimeter of their back yard fence or it could be several miles, it really depends on the individual animal.

We support that early research and add our theory to it. We believe that each individual dog establishes an “immediate” Comfort Zone™ early in life, as young as 10-14 weeks. This close up zone can loosely be described as the dog’s “own personal space”, within a few feet of it’s body.

Our technique of testing the “gradients” of that space (Gradient Training™) basically establishing where each individual Dog’s comfort zone is, and who/what they allow into it.

To give us a clear starting point in working with every dog, we establish what “Zone”(measured in feet) the dog is most comfortable in, i.e. accepting outside intrusion. This gives us indication as to the degree of “outside stimulus” that the dog will accept as they begin learning.

The more the dog accepts comfort zone intrusion, the more advanced they are socially. For us trainers, it makes a difference to what level the dog begins training. Whether it will begin training with no distractions AT ALL or begin Day 1, at a busy shopping mall.

Fear Threshold

We pay close attention to what stimuli cause fearful reactions and the intensity of the stimuli that produces a that reaction. This can be as simple as raising your hand(hand shy) to having a dog “stay” (or attempt to) while a 747 Jet is taking off, 100 feet way, and observing the reactions. Phobia’s are very common in the Canine world, probably more common than one would think. Unsuspecting owners can create problems in this area and do not realize it. Have you ever played with your puppy while vacuuming? The infamous “Puppy chases vacuum... Vacuum chases Puppy game!”

Believe it or not, this can seriously traumatize your puppy, and it may not be obvious for 12 months or more.

The “fear spectrum” in relation to a dog’s behavior has two extremes. From Severe Aggression (Fear Based Aggression) to Extreme Shyness.

If a dog has “Fear based” behavioral issues, it can become evident as serious behavioral such as Fear Biting (Offensive), Fear Biting(Defensive), Extreme Nervousness/Hyper Sensitivity, Stress,

Withdrawal, Self Mutilation, Submissive Incontinence, Excessive House soiling and a multitude of “Self Preservation” type behaviors.

Domestic Adjustment™ /Acceptance Threshold™. Evaluate Aggression level.

The last, but most important, consideration in evaluating the dogs overall personality, is the “level” of dominance the dog has already achieved within it’s family hierarchy.

As we have said before, a dog can have a very aggressive attitude , but does not necessarily have to be a biter. Aggressive behavior can be as simple as blocking doorways, door dashing, pulling on a leash to the point of choking, etc., etc.

In the case of serious aggression, where the dog is biting or attacking, we have a more detailed evaluation process. There are many types of aggressive behavior including, Fear Based, Territorial, Intermale(Dog to Dog), Idiopathic, Genetic, Maternal, Learned, Health Related, Predatory, Competitive and Pain based.

In future reports we will be reviewing previous clients who were “EXTREME” aggressive cases and going into the evaluation/solution process in more detail on a case by case basis.

Observation of the dogs behavior in it’s own home environment gives us many indicators of it’s “Dominance level”. How much effort is needed by the owner in getting a response from the dog after correction (and the number of times corrected) will tell us what the dog’s “Acceptance Threshold™” is. This is a two stage process... general commands and the Down command.

Stage 1.

Will the Dog Come when called?
Will the dog “Stay”, if held in place in a “Low Gradient” situation i.e. living room with no distractions?
Will the dog not try to door dash, if gently held in place?
Will the dog “fight” any type of restraint (a) without a leash (b) with a leash.

Does the dog respond to a verbal correction?... or is a more physical correction needed, such as grabbing the Dog, to get it’s attention.

Which Family members does the Dog respond better to?

Once the visual observation is complete, then we test the Dog’s resistance to gentle, but firm, physical handling.

Stage 2. The defining test.

Will the Dog be voluntarily submissive or put another way, will the down go “Down” on command?
Will the Dog go “Down” with gentle pressure or coaxing?
Will the Dog have to be physically guided (gentle, but firm) go into the “Down” position?

The degree of resistance that the dog exhibits from mild whining to severe biting, indicates us what level of dominance the dog has and how well it’s “Domestic Adjustment™” has been to date.

As we have said before... giving a dog a juicy treat to go “Down” is a REALLY GREAT TRICK.

Having the dog go down for you because it “wants to” show it’s respect of your rank in it’s pack... REALLY GREAT ACHIEVEMENT.

Remember, it’s not “How” but “Why”, we request “Voluntary Submission™.

Interesting Footnote: Adult Dog’s will loose up to 70% of their territorial aggression when removed from their everyday living environment(territory).